Where were the mosquitos coming from? Even to drink coffee I had to dive
back into my tent on the banks of the Moose River. I felt a bit cross-eyed, either due to blood loss to mosquitos or another night of light sleep with trucks rumbling by.
After 40 easy miles pedaling through the cool mountain air I entered beautiful Jasper National Park and made my way to a very busy tourist town; Jasper kindof half wants to be a well zoned mountain town and the other half wants to sell souvenirs to tourists from all over the world.
Like with busy American national parks, the park here engages in some
ironic forms of crowd control. One of them is a sign that reads, ‘do
not leave your car if you are near wildlife.’ a message that assumes that
most visitors will drive the main road through the park, never leave
their car except to snap a few photos and spend some money, and dutifully
return to wherever they came from for the car-cation.
But there’s a reason people come here…it is spectacular scenery!
And the main road (the Icefields Parkway) has no trucks, wow, what a
break, it’s as if there is holiday from the truck thunderstorm on this
stretch of my trip. The road sounds much quieter! It will be a nasty shock
when the trucks return.
Through the haze I pedaled by amazing mountain scenery and hot smoky air.
Huge spiky mountains rise all around me. All the campgrounds are full
so 5 miles past the last ‘campground full’ sign
I ditched right near the headwaters of the Abathasca River, with
mountains towering all over me.